Di2 Wireless Module // BluetoothLE/ANT Troubleshooting guide
Although the wireless d-fly or bluetooth/ant module is not standard on 11-speed di2 road bikes, many riders choose to install one. as i have written in this article, why get a d-fly? is a little extra. definitely not essential and not for everyone, but nice to have. I have the unit installed on both of my di2 bikes.
This page isn’t just about 11-speed road bikes either, wireless functionality comes standard on di2 12-speed road bikes, as well as most mountain bikes and electric/step bikes.
This page serves as a general di2 wireless troubleshooting guide and should answer the most common questions.
skip to common problems and solutions
Whether you are using the road/grx d-fly ew-wu111/ew-wu101, a mtb display (sc-mt800/sc-m9051), or an electric bike with a step display, the issues you may experience are the same.
If you’re here looking for a solution to your problem, use the links below to jump to the appropriate section. Otherwise, keep reading to learn more about di2 bluetoothle/ant modules.
- forgot/invalid password
- phone won’t ask for key, can’t connect
- can’t connect to garmin/wahoo/other bike computer
- firmware update fails, bike ‘bricks’
- bike stops responding
connect the bike to a computer
Some of the solutions suggested on this page require you to connect your di2 bike to a windows computer. as you can read on the linked page this is relatively easy on road bikes and mountain bikes.
however, it can be a bit more difficult on electric stepper bikes. you will probably need the older sm-pce02 or sm-pce1 tool. in that case, it’s usually easier and cheaper to take the bike to a local bike shop.
connect to your di2 bike via bluetoothle/ant
Before we get into the real issues, let’s take some time to talk about connecting to your bike. The process is similar on road bikes, MTBs, and electric bikes, but there are subtle differences.
Please note that, as described in the introduction, a wireless capable module is required. these do not come standard on road bikes.
connect using the e-tube mobile app
The easiest and fastest way to connect to your bike using the e-tube mobile app is to put the bike in pairing mode. it will then actively announce its presence to any bluetooth device that is listening.
how exactly you do this depends on your bike and crossover type.
road/gravel bikes using the crossover sm-ew90 or ew-rs910 will enter bluetoothle pairing mode if you press and hold the crossover button for about 0.5 seconds . the red and green leds will now flash. (the fc-r9100-p power meter will enter pairing mode if you press its button)
on mountain bikes using the sc-mt800 or sc-m9051 displays, simply press and hold the display button for 0.5 seconds, until ‘ c‘ appears on the screen. (note that in some firmware versions the “c” is not displayed, but the units go into pairing mode anyway)
steps and emtbs with the sc-e8000 require you to hold down the mode button while the bike is stopped. then use the (assist) switch to select ‘bluetooth file‘ in the menu and press the mode button to confirm. On the next screen, select ‘start‘ and press the mode button again.
The other step systems will be in connection mode for the first 15 seconds after the system is turned on and for 15 seconds after any other button presses.
With your bike in connection mode or pairing mode, make sure bluetooth is enabled on your phone, then press the connect button on the mobile app.
connect your garmin/wahoo/sigma/head unit
Most bike computers connect to di2 by adding the shimano di2 module as a sensor. garmin, wahoo and sigma certainly do. I’ll describe the process for these three, but other devices will work the same way.
at the time of this writing, most garmin devices will work with di2. of course your bike computer edge devices (edge 510, 520, 530, 810, 820, 830, 1000, 1030) work, but so will some of your watches. the full list of garmin di2 compatible devices can be found on the garmin site
connecting di2 to your garmin is quite simple:
- wake up the bike by pressing any shift button
- on the garmin, go to the sensors page
- select add sensor
- then just search for new sensors. (use the “search all” button or go to “shimano di2” and it will search for your di2 bike)
- add the found sensor to the bike and ready
- please note that if you want the gears displayed on your garmin to make sense, you will need to set them up as well. this is done on the di2 (garmin) sensor details page.
wahoo users can use the wahoo phone app (or elemnt) to connect the sensor:
- activate the bike by pressing any shift button
- make sure your wahoo is on and your phone bluetooth is enabled
- in the wahoo app wait which wahoo to connect to
- elemnt app: tap settings and then set up sensors. will automatically detect nearby sensors
- wahoo app: tap settings then sensors, add new sensor
on a sigma device (rox 12.0) you open the sensors menu, then search sensor > shimano di2 and it will detect the di2 sensor. then select the found sensor you want to pair and tap the checkmark icon.
you can see gplama connect his di2 bike to both a wahoo and a garmin in the following video (about 11 minutes).
Connecting your phone to your bike using the e-tube mobile app is relatively simple: enable bluetooth on your phone, press the button on the junction box until the leds start flashing or the “c” (display) appears. ) and then tap the connect button on the e-tube app.
If you haven’t connected your phone to the bike before, it will ask you for a passkey. the default password is 000000 (six zeros), but this doesn’t always work.
sometimes another user changed the password, and sometimes it just doesn’t work for no apparent reason.
if you can connect your bike to a windows computer, then the solution is easy: you can change your wireless di2 passkey using a computer. Please note that while the linked page describes the process for e-tube for windows 4.0.3, you may have better luck with the e-tube 3.4.5 project. unfortunately version 4.0.3 still has some bugs when used with the sm-bcr2 loader.
Version 3.4.5 can still be downloaded on the shimano e-tube project site, the link is right next to the larger 4.0.3 download button. is looking for the ‘bluetooth settings‘ button after running the connection check.
now… if you’re on an electric bike/stepper bike and you don’t own the sm-pce02 or sm-pce1, then you’re out of luck, there’s no way to connect to the bike. however, you can ask your favorite local bike shop to reset it, it should take about 15 minutes tops.
the phone does not request the access key, it cannot connect
The other main issue when connecting to a mobile phone also involves the passkey. in these cases, e-tube project mobile tries its best to connect to the bike, but finally says
could not pair with ew-wu111 / sc-mt800
the connection of the bluetooth file has been interrupted
that’s it. doesn’t give you any suggestions on how to fix this, so don’t feel bad if this happened to you. there’s not much you could have done to prevent this.
Behind the scenes, what happens is that when the passkey authentication is done between the phone and the bike, the mobile app responds with an incorrect or outdated passkey. the application retrieves the passkey from its local cache and uses it, even if it is not correct. when the bike responds with a “wrong passkey” message, the app simply gives you the same passkey again. and again. and again.
Unfortunately, uninstalling the app from your phone or clearing the cache or data of the app doesn’t work either. although the solution is relatively simple:
- go to the list of bluetooth devices on your phone
- search for ew-wu111 / sc-mt800 or steps device
- forget it or delete it from the list
that’s it. for some reason the cached passkey is tied to the bluetooth device’s profile and deleting that also deletes the cached key.
You can now launch the e-tube project mobile app again, and when you connect, it will ask you to enter a passkey, like it’s supposed to.
cannot connect to garmin/wahoo/other bike computer
Connecting to a bike computer is relatively simple: you press a shift button to activate the bike, then look it up on your bike computer.
however…sometimes cycle computers just don’t see your bike.
first, connect your bike to a windows computer via usb and make sure the bluetooth/ant radio is enabled. if they’re not, the bike won’t broadcast its existence to devices around it… and it’s pretty hard to connect to something you can’t see.
after e-tube project has been connected to the bike, simply open the maintenance window and select your wireless module (ew-wu111/ew-wu101 or display). Please note that if you are using e-tube project 3.4.5, you will need to press customize and then set the wireless communication mode.
Double check that the wireless communication mode is set to ant / bluetoothle and press apply or set to confirm the setting. disconnect using the disconnect button and now try to connect again.
In very rare cases, your garmin/wahoo will not see the bike, even if it has been activated and the bluetoothle/ant radio is enabled. If this has happened to you, try unplugging the battery for about 30 seconds. after reconnecting the battery, turn on the bike and then try to pair your cycle computer again.
This should get your bike to connect to your cycle computer, but if you’re still having trouble send me a message or leave a comment.
firmware update fails and “locks” your bike
Depending on when your wireless module (ew-wu111, ew-wu101, sc-mt800, or sc-m9051) was manufactured, you may need to update its firmware before you can use it.
The initial firmware of these units can only be updated via the e-tube mobile app, which is not very good. Although shimano updated the mobile apps on August 31, 2020, using them to do this first firmware update is prone to failure.
When a wireless module’s mobile firmware update fails, the bike is left in a “connected” state: it thinks it is connected and will not respond to shift commands. is effectively useless.
This usually lasts until the battery dies, which shouldn’t take more than a day. then you can charge the battery and try again.
Waiting a day between attempts isn’t my idea of fun, and luckily there’s an easier, faster way to get your bike out of tethered mode.
restore your bike
The most effective way to restore your bike is to cut power to the system. you could wait for the battery to die, but that will take a while. the best method is to disconnect the battery.
disconnecting the battery for about 30 seconds and then reconnecting it is usually enough to reset the bike. Some users have reported having to unplug all components, but personally I’d start with just the battery.
if you have no luck with that, follow these steps:
- disconnect the battery
- remove the wireless module (only applicable to ew-wu111 / ew-wu101)
- reconnect the battery
- verify regardless of whether the bike shifts or not
- if it does, reconnect the wireless module
- if it doesn’t, connect the bike to a windows computer and run the e-tube project (prefer e-tube project 3.4.5)
- double check the list of components detected by the application. If any of them have corrupted firmware, use the e-tube project to restore it. (note that you may have to switch between versions of the e-tube project to do this)
can’t get to the battery?
On some bikes it is relatively difficult to get to the battery, usually due to frame design or the use of suspension/flexible seatposts or dropper posts. you may need to remove the bottom bracket to disconnect the battery and that can be a hassle. maybe you don’t have the right press fit tools or you just don’t want to remove the bottom bracket.
so what can you do? the next best thing is to disconnect all components connected to the battery:
- disconnect rear derailleur cable
- disconnect front derailleur cable
Next, you’ll disconnect the front end of the bike. this is usually connected via a single cable running from the stem/handlebar to the down tube. If your bike has the ew-rs910 handlebar end joint installed, it will probably connect to the rest of the system via the ew-jc200 y-splitter and in-line joint or the ew-wu111 wireless module. just disconnect the cable going from the jc200/wu111 to the down tube.
do you use the sm-ew90 undershaft joint? then just disconnect the cable that goes from there to the rest of the bike.
You have now isolated the battery from the rest of the system, effectively disconnecting it. the only thing it’s still connected to is the sm-jc41 junction b, but that’s just a dumb four-way splitter.
if that didn’t work…
Of course you could be very, very unlucky and still have a bike that doesn’t work. at this point I would unplug everything and then one by one I would plug the components back in.
Start with just the Junction A and connect that to your Windows computer. Then keep adding components until everything is connected. This can be just that extra push some bikes seem to need.
If you’re still stuck after doing all of the above, it might be a good idea to visit your local bike shop. they will be able to check and restore their bike using their sm-pce1 / sm-pce02 tool.
prevent firmware update from disabling or locking your bike…again
The main cause of these errors is the mobile app caching an invalid access key. during the update, your wireless module goes offline, and when it comes back, the application tries to resume the update process using an invalid access key. that’s when it fails and leaves the bike in its connected mode.
When you connect to the bike using the default passkey (000000), it will always ask you to change the passkey.
do not change the password. at least not until the initial firmware update is complete.
If you have changed the passkey, you will need to exit the mobile app immediately, without updating the firmware. cancel any firmware update you try to do and use the disconnect button to exit the application.
now go to the bluetooth device list of your mobile phone and find the wireless module (ew-wu111 / ew-wu101 / sc-mt800 / sc-m9051 / steps / etc.). then ‘forget’ or ‘remove’ the module from the list.
This will clear all cached access keys on your phone. the next time you connect to the bike, it will allow you to enter the correct passkey. it should now be safe to update the module’s firmware.
the bike stops responding
If there’s one thing worth knowing about mobile apps, it’s this:
Your bike will not switch while connected.
When you connect your bike to mobile or e-tube windows app, it goes into maintenance mode. while in this mode, it will not respond to commands at all.
Specific to the mobile app is the need to use the disconnect button. If you don’t use this button, the bike will remain in maintenance mode and will not respond. just closing the mobile app won’t work, you really, really, really have to hit that button.
did you close the app anyway, without pressing the button? then just open the mobile app, tell it to reconnect and then use the disconnect button to close the connection.
any other problem? let me know!
Are you having any other issues when trying to use the mobile app or bike computer? have I missed any? just leave a comment or send an email and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can, and I’ll probably update this page too!